Maintenance

A Checklist for Maintaining Your Vehicle

Check Your Coolant/Anti-Freeze Levels
Coolants and anti-freeze liquids keep the engine from overheating in hot conditions and keep liquids from freezing in cold conditions. To make sure that doesn't happen, check the level in your radiator or radiator reservoir container every time you check your oil. Coolant should be checked every 4,500 kilometers.

Here's how to check your coolant level:

Open the bonnet and find the radiator, which is usually close to the front of the engine bay. The radiator coolant reservoir is a plastic tank near the radiator, usually off to one side. Check the owner's manual if you need help finding it.
Make sure the liquid level is up to the level indicated on the outside of the reservoir.
Top up the reservoir if needed. A funnel might help you keep from spilling. Make sure you read the instructions on the coolant container. Sometimes you'll need to add water to the coolant before you pour it in.
Very important: Don't remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Always add coolant to the plastic reservoir, not to the radiator itself.

Inspect and Adjust Belts
Belts should be checked on a regular basis (about once a month). In general, you should be on the look out for worn, glazed or frayed belts. Many accessories including the alternator, fan and coolant pump are operated by drive belts. If these belts break or slip the components they drive will fail to work.

Here's how to inspect and replace a belt:

Twist it so you can see the underside of the "V" shape on V-type belts, or the ribs on a serpentine-type belt and check for any wear or cracks. Oil-soaked belts can slip and not rotate the component they are driving fast enough. Glazed belts have a shiny appearance; this occurs when a belt is not tight enough and the slipping polishes its surface. Torn or split belts have major damage and must be replaced immediately.
Before adjusting any drive belt, always check the service manual for specific instructions. Find the longest span in the belt and push on it as shown below. It should move in about half an inch. If it moves more than this, the belt is too loose. If it moves less, it is too tight. Check your owners manual again.
Most belts are adjusted by loosening the support for the alternator and moving it back and forth to tighten or loosen the belt. Other systems use an idler pulley for the adjustment.
First loosen the adjustment fastener on the slotted alternator support. Wedge a (steel) bar between a strong part of the engine and the alternator. Pull on the bar to move the alternator housing in a direction to tighten the belt. Tighten the adjustment fastener. Recheck the adjustment by measuring the belt as explained earlier.
When you have determined that a drive belt is defective and needs to be replaced, you should have the replacement belt on hand. Loosen the adjustment fastener on the alternator or idler pulley.
Push the alternator or idler pulley inward to loosen the belt. Pull the old drive belt off the pulleys.
Place the new and old belt side by side to make a comparison. The belt width and length of the new belt must be the same. If you find a difference, check to see that you have not got the wrong belt. A belt that is too long to be adjusted properly will slip. A belt that is too short will not fit over the pulleys. A belt with the incorrect width or V shape could be thrown off when the engine is running.
Install the correct belt over the pulleys. Adjust the belt to the proper tension as described previously. Start the engine and observe the belt in operation. Stop the engine and recheck the tension.
If you are in any way unsure about what to do, click here to find a mechanic in your area.

Transmission Fluid

Manual Transmissions
The manual transmission is lubricated by a liquid that is splashed throughout the transmission by the moving gears. The lubricant must be at the correct level or the transmission parts could wear out in a very short time. The interval for lubrication level check is specified in the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual.

Some imported cars have a dipstick to check manual transmission fluid level. The engine must be off to check the fluid with a dipstick otherwise you will not get an accurate reading. Remove and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Then insert the dipstick back into position. Remove it again and note the reading. Lubricant must be between the "full" and "add" marks on the dipstick.
Make manual transmission checks with the engine off. Never put your finger into a transmission fill hole. If the drive wheels are turned, your finger could be caught in the gearing.
You most probably will need to raise the car up on a jack to check it (you must also be sure the car is level.). Alternatively, drive to a mechanic who has a pit you can drive over or a hydraulic hoist. Locate the transmission fill plug on the side of the transmission. You may have difficulty locating it. Do not confuse the fill plug with the drain plug, which is located at the bottom of the transmission.
Clean the area around the fill plug to avoid getting dirt into the transmission. Remove the fill plug. If the transmission is full, you may see lubricant begin to leak out of the fill hole. If this happens, replace the plug.
You will probably find that the lubricant level is below the level of the fill hole. Bend a short length of metal wire and insert it into the fill hole. Pull the wire out and note the lubricant on the end of the wire. The lubricant level should be very close to the level of the fill plug.
If the lubricant level is satisfactory, replace the fill plug. If fluid must be added, refer to the driver’s manual for more information on changing and adding fluid.

Automatic Transmissions
Automatic transmission fluid should be checked regularly and at time intervals as specified in the owner's manual.

Drive the car onto a level surface. Most cars must have the engine running to make a fluid level check. Some cars must have the transmission in NEUTRAL and others require that it be in PARK for testing. Set the selector in the correct mode. If the transmission is in NEUTRAL, block the wheels and engage the parking brake. Failure to have the transmission in the correct gear when checking fluid level can cause a large error in the reading.
Raise the hood and locate the automatic transmission dipstick. Typically you will find the dipstick near the transmission end of the engine at the opposite end of the drive belts.
Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean, lint-free rag. (It's important to use a lint-free rag when wiping the dipstick. Lint from a rag could get into parts of the transmission and plug up passages.) Observe the markings on the dipstick. There is no standard marking system, so you may need to look up an explanation of the marks in the owner's manual.
Insert the dipstick back into its housing and push it down to the end. Pull it back out and observe the fluid level in relation to the dipstick markings. While you have the fluid on the dipstick you should observe its color and condition. This information can help you decide if the fluid requires changing. Clean, uncontaminated fluid has a pinkish or reddish color. Fluid that has been overheated turns a darkish brown or black. A white milky appearance can mean that the engine coolant is leaking into the transmission.
If fluid must be added or changed, refer to the driver’s manual for more information on changing and adding fluid.
Replace the dipstick and make sure it is sitting properly.

Checking the Oil
To keep your car in good running condition, make sure your engine is full of clean oil. Don't wait until you see the red oil pressure light on your dashboard. By that time, you may have already done serious and expensive damage to your engine. You can avoid all this by making it a habit to check your oil when you get gas. Most service station attendants will check it for you. Also check your oil when you set out on a big trip. By checking the oil frequently, you can get good at estimating how long it takes for your engine to start running low on oil.

In general, oil should be changed every 4,500 kilometers. Older cars tend to burn oil faster than newer cars, and therefore should be checked more often. Keep a record handy of when your oil was last changed. If a mechanic has changed the oil, he may have put a sticker on the windscreen that will show when the next check or replacement should happen.

Here's how to check the oil yourself:

Park on level ground and shut off the engine.
Open the bonnet and find the metal loop sticking out at the end of a metal stalk. That's the end of your dipstick. If you can't find it, your owner's manual should help.
With a rag or thick paper towel in one hand, pull on the metal loop and remove the dipstick with the other. Wipe the straight end and push it back into the stalk you pulled it out of.
Wait a few seconds, and pull out the dipstick again.
Look at the end of the dipstick, and notice where the oil ends. There are markings that indicate the parameters of where the oil should reach. If the oil doesn't reach inside the markings, you need to add at least quarter of a litre (maybe more) of oil. It's also a good idea to look carefully at the oil on the dipstick. If it is grainy or has little nuggets or dirt in it, it's time for an oil change. The oil should look smooth.
To add oil, make sure the engine is off. Find the oil cap on the top of the engine and unscrew it. Pour the oil into the hole. A funnel might help, but don't worry if you spill a bit of it on the engine.
Replace the oil cap and recheck the oil level like you did before.

Headlight Replacement
One of the most common lighting system repairs is replacing the headlight. After a period of time the filament may burn through or the lens may be broken. Before the headlight is replaced, however, check the condition of the fuse. If it is good, you may also want to use a voltmeter to test the circuit.

The procedure for replacing the headlight differs depending on the type of bulb used. Most conventional sealed-beam and halogen sealed-beam headlights are replaced in the same manner. Composites require different procedures. Always refer to the service manual for the vehicle you are working on. Because of the construction and placement of the prisms in the lens, it is important that the headlight is installed in its proper position. The lens is usually marked 'TOP' to indicate the proper installed position.

Sealed Beam
To replace a sealed-beam headlight:

Place covers around the work area.
This type of replacement usually requires the removal of the retaining trim around the headlight.
Remove the retaining ring screws and the retaining trim. Do not turn the two headlight aiming adjustment screws
Remove the headlight from the shell assembly.
Disconnect the wire connector from the back of the lamp.
Check the wire connector for corrosion or other foreign material and clean.
Coat the connector terminals and the prongs of the new headlight with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
Install the wire connector onto the headlight prongs and place the headlight into the shell assembly. When positioning the headlight, be sure the embossed number is at the top.
Install the retainer trim and fasteners.
Check operation of the headlight.
Check headlight aiming as described in the next section.
Install the headlight retaining trim.

It is not recommended that halogen sealed-beam and standard sealed-beam headlights be mixed on the vehicle. Also, if the vehicle was equipped with halogen headlights as original equipment, do not replace the headlights with standard sealed beams. Doing so may result in poor light quality.

Because the filament of the halogen lamp is contained in its own bulb, cracking or breaking of the lens does not prevent headlight operation. The filament will continue to operate as long as the filament envelope has not been broken. However, a broken lens will result in poor light quality and should be replaced for the safety of the customer.

Headlight Aiming
The headlights should be checked for proper aiming whenever the lamps are replaced. Proper aiming is important for good light projection onto the road and to prevent discomfort and dangerous conditions for oncoming drivers. Correct headlight beam position is so critical that government regulations control limits for headlight aiming. For example, a headlight that is incorrectly aimed by one degree downward will reduce the vision distance by about 50 metres. You should have your headlights tested at your local service station.

Taillight Assemblies
In a three-bulb taillight system, the brake lights are controlled directly by the brake light switch. The brake lights on both sides of the vehicle are wired in parallel. Most brake light systems use dual filament bulbs that can perform multi-functions.

If all of the taillights do not operate, check the condition of the fuse. If it is good, use a voltmeter to test the circuit.

Most taillight bulbs can be replaced without removal of the lens assembly. The bulb and socket are removed by twisting the socket slightly and pulling it out of the lens assembly To remove the bulb from the socket, push in on the bulb slightly while turning it. When the lugs align with the channels of the socket, pull the bulb from the socket. Remove the attachment nuts from the back of the assembly to remove it.

Checking Your Tyre Pressure
The main reason you should care about tyre pressure is car performance. Cars are easier to handle when the tyre pressure is correct. Properly maintained tyres also last longer, and reduce your petrol use.

The best way to maintain your tyres is to buy an inexpensive tyre pressure gauge. The correct tyre pressure is usually printed on the side, non-tread part of the tyres. It's also listed in your manual, and is often listed on a sticker in the glove box. The pressure may be listed in pounds per square inch, or PSI so you may have to convert to metric.

Here is how to check your tyre pressure:

Find an air pump at a petrol station and park so that the air pump hose can reach your tyre comfortably. It's best to check tyres when they are cold -- that is, when you haven't been driving on them for very long.
Remove the tiny black valve cap on the valve that comes out of your tyre, near the hubcap.
Press the round part of the tyre gauge firmly onto the valve. Try to press it so that the hissing sound of air escaping from the tyre stops while you're pressing. When it does, you'll get an accurate reading.
Read the gauge like a thermometer. The highest number you see closest to the stem of the gauge is the PSI. That number should match the recommended PSI for your tyre.
If the gauge reading is higher than it should be, use your finger, or the notch on the opposite side of most tyre gauges, to release a bit of air by pressing it on the pin inside the tyre valve.
If the gauge reading is lower than it should be, use the pump to add more air. Press the head of the air hose firmly onto the tyre just like you did with the tyre gauge.
Check your tyre pressure with the gauge again, repeating your steps until you get the PSI right.
Don't forget to replace the valve cap.

Shock Absorbers
Whenever you inspect the suspension system, you should test the shock absorbers. The test should be performed with the car on the ground, not when the car is being supported on a jack or hoist.

The way to test the front and rear shocks is by bouncing each corner of the car. Rock the car at each corner and release. If the car bounces more than 1.5 times after you have stopped, take a closer look at the shocks. If the car bounces more than it should, raise the car up on a jack. Run your hand over the tyre tread completely around the tyre and from inside to outside. Cupping or unusual wear in any area indicates the shocks may not be holding the tyres on the road. Look for broken mounts, damaged bushings, and oil on the shock absorber barrel. Grab the shock and shake firmly. This may reveal damage to a mount or bushing not apparent at first sight. Substantial fluid on the outside of the shock absorber housing indicates a leaking seal. Fluid cannot be replaced and shocks are ineffective without fluid; shock absorber replacement is required. Shocks should always be installed in pairs, and it is often most economical to replace all four.

Remove and Replace Shock Absorbers
When replacing front or rear shocks, first compare the shocks on the car to the replacement units. The old and new shocks should be the same length and same mounting; carefully observe the position and type of mounting of the original shock absorbers.

Three common styles of shock mountings are shown below. The shock absorber can be mounted by a thread formed on the end of the piston shaft. This is called a stem mounting. Stem mounting is common on the top end of a shock mounted in the center of a coil spring. The tab stud or cross pin mount is used on the bottom of many coil spring-mounted shock absorbers. Sleeve mounting may be used on one or both ends of the shock absorber; it is used on some front shocks, but is most common on the rear.

Before removing any shock absorber hardware, spray penetrating fluid on all the threads. Road splash and rust can make nuts very difficult to remove. Some nuts will probably have to be removed with an air impact wrench and impact socket.

To remove front or rear shock absorbers, raise the car on a hoist. Do not allow the front or rear drive axle to hang--make sure it is supported on the hoist.

Remove the nut, then remove the upper washer and grommet. Unbolt the cross pin from the lower control arm and pull the shock absorber out through the bottom of the control arm.

Make sure the correct number and type of lower rubber grommets and washers are positioned on the stem. Check the instructions with the new shocks and also compare with the old shock mounting. Push the new shock absorber into position through the hole in the bottom control arm. Install the upper washer and grommet, then install the nut. Use an open-end wrench to hold the stem and torque the nut to specifications. Install the bolts that hold the cross pin and torque them to specifications.

Rear shocks are often mounted with a stud or cross pin at one end and a sleeve mount at the other end. The stud and cross pin are removed and replaced by the procedure described earlier for front units. The sleeve mount is removed and replaced by removing and replacing the bolt and nut that goes through the sleeve into the mounting bracket. Be sure to torque all the attaching bolts to specifications.

Exhaust
The muffler is an oval-shaped or cylindrical component made from coated and aluminized steel or stainless steel. Inlet and outlet pipes extend from the ends of the muffler. Inside the muffler, the exhaust gas flows through a series of perforated tubes and a tuning chamber to silence the exhaust. The perforated tubes inside the muffler cancel out and silence the pressure pulsation’s in the exhaust each time an exhaust valve opens. The muffler is located behind the catalytic converter in the exhaust system. On many vehicles, the muffler is positioned just behind the center of the vehicle, but space requirements on some vehicles demand muffler installation near the rear of the car. When the muffler is positioned near the rear of the vehicle, it runs cooler and may experience more internal condensation. Mufflers rust on the inside if excessive internal condensation occurs.

The most common type of muffler is the reverse-flow design, which changes the direction of exhaust flow inside the muffler. Some mufflers are a straight-through design in which the exhaust passes through a single perforated tube.

Electronic Mufflers
Although electronic mufflers are not widely used at present, they may be installed on vehicles in the near future. In an electronic muffler system, sensors and microphones in the exhaust system sense the pattern of exhaust pressure waves. This information is sent to an on-board computer that controls loudspeakers in the muffler. The computer operates the loudspeakers to generate sound waves that oppose and cancel the original exhaust sound waves produced by the engine.

Tailpipes
The tail pipe carries the flow of exhaust from the muffler to the rear of the vehicle. Some vehicles have an integral resonator in the tail pipe. This resonator is similar to a small muffler, and it provides additional exhaust silencing. In some exhaust systems, the resonator is clamped into the tail pipe. Tail pipes have many different bends to fit around the chassis and driveline components. All exhaust system components must be positioned away from the chassis and driveline to prevent rattling. The tail pipe usually extends under the rear bumper, and the end of this pipe is cut at an angle to deflect the exhaust downward. Chrome tail pipe extensions are available in auto parts stores. Click here to check a dealer near you. These extensions are attached to the tail pipe with lock screws.

Filling the Petrol Tank
Apart from getting petrol or diesel, you may like to have the attendant check the vehicle oil and water levels. If you suspect the car is not running right, the attendant may be able to help and give advice. Here's how to pump your own gas:

Pull your car close to a self-service pump, making sure the side of the car with the gas tank is facing it. Make sure you choose the correct fuel for your vehicle. Sometimes, you’ll find a sticker on the inside of the petrol cap or cover. Otherwise, the attendant will be able to tell you what type of petrol your vehicle uses.
Before you get out of the car, find the release for the petrol tank. In some cars it’s is a lever in the glove compartment, in others it’s by the bonnet release. You may also find it between the bottom of the drivers seat and the door.
If the gas cap has a lock, unlock it and twist the cap off. Put it in a place where you won't forget to put it back when you're done. Be careful not to scratch your car with the cap.
Grab the nozzle gun from the pump and insert it into the gas tank opening. Make sure you push the nozzle in as far as it will go.
Before you start pumping, lift the lever that holds the nozzle on the pump to the "on" position. If you did it right, you'll see the dials go to zero on the pump. Then enter the amount or push the "fill" button.
Squeeze the trigger on the nozzle handle, watching the dials to make sure gas is flowing into the tank. Some nozzles have a latch that will hold the trigger in place. When the tank is full, you'll hear a click, and the trigger will automatically release. If there isn't a trigger, you'll have to squeeze the trigger yourself until you hear the click. Stop pumping, remove the nozzle, and replace it in its cradle on the pump. If you hear the click when you first start pumping -- or if you suspect your aren't filled up yet -- stop pumping, readjust the nozzle a bit, and try again.
Replace the gas cap.
Make a note of how much gas the pump says you pumped and the pump number so the attendant will charge you for the correct amount.

Preventative Maintenance Check List

Vehicle System or Part Check Each Week Check Each Month Check Every 2 Months Special Note

Air Filter X Check the air filter every other month. Get it replaced as part of a tune-up. It is easy to reach, right under the big metal "lid", in a carbureted engine; or in a rectangular box at the forward end of the air duct hose assembly.

Antifreeze X Check the antifreeze or coolant level weekly. Some cars have transparent reservoirs with level markings. Fill to level marking with 50/50 solution of antifreeze and water. Caution: Do not remove the pressure cap when engine is hot.

Battery X Use extreme caution when handling a battery since it can produce explosive gases. Do not smoke, create a spark or light a match near a battery and always wear protective glasses and gloves. Have it checked with every oil change. Cables should be attached securely and be free of corrosion. If battery has filler holes, add only clear odorless drinking water.

Belts X Inspect belts and hoses monthly. Replace worn, glazed or frayed belts. Tighten them when more than ½" of slack can be depressed between the pulleys. Vehicles with spring loaded belt tensioners require no adjustment. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.

Brake Fluid X Check brake fluid monthly. First, wipe dirt from the brake master cylinder reservoir lid. Pry off the retainer clip and remove the lid or unscrew plastic lid, depending on which type your vehicle has. If you need fluid, add the approved type and check for possible leaks throughout the system. Fill to mark on reservoir. Caution: Do Not Overfill.

Engine Oil X Check oil every other fill up. Remove the dipstick, wipe it clean. insert it fully and remove it again. If it is low, add oil. To maintain peak performance, change oil every 4,500 km or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.

Exhaust X Look underneath for loose or broken exhaust clamps and supports. Check for holes in muffler or pipes. Replace rusted or damaged parts. Have emission checked at least once per year.

Hoses X Inspect belts and hoses monthly. Replace worn, glazed or frayed belts. Tighten them when more than ½" of slack can be depressed between the pulleys. Vehicles with spring loaded belt tensioners require no adjustment. Replace bulging, rotten or brittle hoses and tighten clamps. If a hose looks bad, or feels too soft or too hard, it should be replaced.

Lights X Be sure all your lights are clean and working, including brake lights, turn signals and emergency flashers. Keep spare bulbs and fuses in your vehicle.

Oil Filter X To maintain peak performance, change oil every 4,500 km or 3 months, whichever comes first. Replace oil filter with every oil change.

Power Steering Fluid X Check power steering fluid level once per month. Simply remove the reservoir dipstick. If the level is down, add fluid and inspect the pump and hoses for leaks.

Shock Absorbers X Look for signs of oil seepage on shock absorbers, test shock action by bouncing the car up and down. The car should stop bouncing when you step back. Worn or leaking shocks should be replaced. Always replace shock absorbers in pairs.

Tyres X Keep tyres inflated to recommended pressure (it helps to own your own gauge). Check for cuts, bulges and excessive tread wear. Uneven wear indicates tyres are misaligned or out of balance. Keep a record of tyre rotation. Rotate at the first 8,000 km and every 7,500 miles thereafter.

Transmission Fluid X Check transmission fluid monthly with engine warm and running, and parking brake on. Shift to drive, then to park. Remove dipstick, wipe dry, insert it and remove it again. Add the approved type fluid, if needed. Caution: Do Not Overfill!

Washer Fluid X Keep windshield washer fluid reservoir full. When topping off, use some windshield washer fluid on a rag to clean off the wiper blades. In the winter months, pay attention to the freezing point of the washer fluid.

Wiper Blades X Inspect windshield wiper blades whenever you clean your windshield. Do not wait until rubber is worn or brittle to replace them. Wiper blades should be replaced at least once per year, and more often if smearing or chattering occurs.